Some might say that one event as a volunteer organiser for Heritage Week is noble, but two may be over the top. The truth is, I was thinking the same myself last week as the time clipped along and the workload seemed daunting. Having committed to do a weir building workshop for Water Heritage Day back in June when Sinead Boyle contacted me and invited me to do something in Reginald’s Tower I had to pause. Years back, I was filled with hesitation about any such invites, but in recent years I’ve started to take a devil may care approach – what is there to lose
But the truth is as a volunteer with a day job, the time that goes into such events does take a toll. But to be invited to talk in Reginald’s Tower. How could a Waterford person refuse?
Now before I tell you how it went, can I just mention that this coming Sunday, August 28th, I am appearing on the new RTE Radio 1 show, the County Measure, hosted by Vincent Woods and produced by Regan Hutchins. The lads came out with me some weeks back and we had a wonderful day on the river talking about the fishing heritage of Cheekpoint, what it was like as a child to grow up here and how the loss of the salmon fishery in particular impacts the community. But I also spoke about the future and how a new pontoon (which is since in place) could be just the resource to help move the village forward again after years of inertia. I will be on for 5 mins, although we spoke for over an hour, so I can’t say what will feature, but listen in yourself shur, this Sunday at 10am. Even if you don’t want to hear me, there will be many other fascinating features about Waterford, including my cousin Breda Murphy of Crooke.
When considering the invitation to Reginalds Tower – my first thought was that I could literally talk about any aspect of Waterford’s maritime history and the Tower would be relevant. However my enduring thought was of the Portlairge, the mudboat, tied up on the river beside it, at the London Hulk. So when I agreed to do it, this was my first choice of topic, which was warmly embraced by Sinead and the Reginald’s Tower team. I decided, in an effort to cut down on time, to go with a reading from my second book but of course, I couldn’t leave it there.
I opted to add a powerpoint show and also to go after as many images as I could of crewmen. I also invited some crew histories from descendants of previous captains – the first Vincent Martin was supplied by Richard Englewood. Fintan Walsh wrote a wonderful account of his dad Willie Walsh the second master who was replaced by Mikey Heffernan. John Sullivan also kindly arranged for me to meet with Sonny Condon who had written a fine article on the mudboat featured in Decies previously. David Carroll, Frank Cheevers, Kay Boland and Liam Ryan helped me with images. All in all a lovely collaboration and well publicised and organised by the Reginald’s Tower gang.
Our second event was the weir building – specifically my experiences of working on the repair and the fishing of the traditional Waterford harbour Head Weir. I suppose deciding to build a life-size model of the structure at Moran’s Poles was slightly over the top, but I think it helped to get a true sense of the building. It was later that Tomás Sullivan contacted me to say that he could bring a number of the participants out to look at the weirs, through the support of the Local Authorities Water Programme. Had I known earlier I might not have invested so much of my time into the structure. Another positive of the day is that the Heritage Council sent along a film maker (Peter) to record the event.
I have a number of speaking commitments for the rest of this year – Booze Blaas and Banter, Imagine Arts Festival, and Old Gaffers online talk amongst others. Book three about shipwrecks and other shipping incidents is in outline and provisionally titled “Every Man for Himself” – often used in the past as the final command when abandoning ship. I’m also looking to establish Tides and Tales as a social enterprise, currently, I’m gathering a Board of Directors around me to support me to do this. I will get back to the blogs for September.
For Heritage Week 2022, I am running an interactive course for 12 people on how to “sink” a typical local fishing weir based on my experiences as a child and young adult. We will also have a trip courtesy of Tomás Sullivan to an existing weir to appreciate the scale and positioning of the structure. Tomás will also do a short input on the issue of marine litter as part of this. The course will take place at Moran’s Poles from 11am – 1pm on Sunday August 21st as part of Water Heritage Day and supported by Local Authority Waters Programme . Prebooking is essential here, and participants can expect to learn about the history of the weirs, how they were sited, the methods employed in construction & repair and how they were operated by local fishermen. (I will also give a talk at Reginald’s Tower on Thursday 18th about the Portlairge dredger -but more details to come). To whet the appetite, or at least give you a sense of what’s involved, here’s a chapter from my first book entitled “Sinking a Weir”.
That first season on the eels opened my eyes to the working of the weirs and I quickly learned to respect and admire the creators of these structures. When the tides ran at full strength and the waters rushing through hummed with the force, you got a true sense of their durability.
I was reared on the lore of sinking weirs. ‘Big Patsy’ Doherty told me one time of sinking the family weir on the Coolya mud. They were working away when they spotted the Moran’s pushing off from Moran’s Poles. He expressed his relief at the sight of them rowing across the river, knowing their skill and strength was going to make light of the job. Big Patsy had been a fisherman all his life and worked for many years in the Harbour Board on the Port Lairge. In my late teens he was retired and unwell, being cared for by his wife, the ‘Madonna’ and his two daughters Agnes and Ann Marie. They waited on him ‘hand and foot’ as the saying goes. He had been unwell for some years but each spring, he miraculously raised himself up once the salmon started the run. Then he and Walter Whitty would fish for as he put it, “one last season”. He had a few last seasons yet to come however, before his final sailing.
The first job I ever worked on was the weir known as Mahon’s weir at the Rookery, owned by John Heffernan. Any repair works on weirs tended to be done with the neap tides, when the river ran at its slowest or most gentle. Weir poles, pine trees of between twenty-five to forty feet in length, were prepared on the shoreline, trimmed, pointed and tied together and towed out by punt to the weir.
Alongside the weir were two boats, one an old-style yawl, now a motorised half-decker, called the Maid of the West, the other Paddy Moran’s punt called the Judy. They were each positioned on either side of the outside wing. Across the gunwale of each boat was tied a strong plank, which was our working platform, where the men could stand, and the poles could be hoisted up to.
Around the Maid of the West the various tools for the job were in place. It was a basic tool chest, the mare, lump and sledge hammers, hatchet, spanners, a coil of rope and dozens of homemade metal pins, the largest being almost a foot long.
My crewmates were known to me and all very experienced. John Heffernan as owner was in charge. But my grand uncle Paddy Moran was there, and he was the oldest man present. Matt ‘Spoogy’ Doherty was present. Matt had his own weir further down known as the Sheag weir now gone after being struck by a ship in the 1990s. Gerry Boland and Pat Moran were there. This was their way of giving thanks for the access to bait from the weir for Eel fishing. Anthony Fortune was also present, as he fished with John. The brothers Paddy and Mickey Duffin made up the team. Paddy was one of the strongest men in the village, with a pair of hands that looked like shovels. Mickey was a river pilot, and a great man for the yarns. It was a mixed and motley crew all under the direction of John, who was a man of unbelievable strength and who always led from the front.
The real work started once a pole was chosen for driving. I was sent down in another punt to untie and bring up a pole, this was the young man’s job. The poles were upper end towards the weir, all the pointed ends which would be driven into the riverbed, were facing downriver. Although they may have all looked alike, John had his eye on certain ones, and I was verbally jostled from one to another until my hand clasped the preferred pole.
Untied, I pushed it up against the outflowing tide and as the tip of it came up to the working plank. Pat Moran knelt down and brought an end of a rope under it, and passing the end up between them they hauled on each end of the rope and the upper end on the pole rose up to meet them. The end of the pole was placed on the plank and then it was grasped by powerful hands and heaved along, raising it out of the river water and into the air. Once it started to balance across the plank, the job became a bit trickier, and I was told to stand on the part of the pole that remained in the river. As the men lifted, I kept my weight on the pole in the river, and slowly it started to straighten into a more vertical position. The aim, as I quickly figured out, was to get the pole upright which when combined with the suction of the mud on the riverbed made the movement and positioning of the pole much easier, something that would have been impossible on land.
Within moments the pole was vertical and then the job of getting it into position began. This was an altogether slower job. The pole could now be manhandled by two men, because its weight was supported by the river and the muddy river bottom. The men worked to align it with the line of the weir wing. But with short abrupt movements, too high and the end might float up to the surface and the whole operation would need to start again.
Once a position was agreed on, the pole was lifted by hand and dropped to secure it. This was a temporary holding position and it would be then held in place by hand. A second plank was laid between the two boats and this was tied into place, offering a more secure working platform.
Then the Mare came into play. The Mare was a two-piece metal implement. Each part had a long handle at the end of which was a semi-circular cup with holes at either side. These cups fitted into each other and as each end was offered up to the pole, large bolts were put through the holes and then washers and nuts were hand tightened into place to bring the two semi-circular cups together around the pole. Spanners were used to tighten the nuts and bolts, securely fastening the Mare around the pole, so much so, that it made a solid bar of the two halves. This then was the leaver to be used in driving the pole. No one knows the origin of the name, but many thought it was French.
The Mare was positioned as high as they could get it on the first drive, perhaps seven feet. The drive started with everyone taking a position on either side of the pole and as evenly as possible along the shafts of the mare. We began by lifting the pole out of the mud once more then dropping it back. Then it was done again, but not as high and dropped once more, with force. This motion of lifting up and dropping down would continue with increasing force, but always with perfect care to keep the pole vertical and straight. The drive would continue with much grunting and verbal encouragement until the Mare hit the platform planks.
Then the Mare was opened and repositioned further up the pole. On the second drive, it would not go so high, because it would take a lot of strength to re-lift it once stopped for any length of time. The deeper the pole went, the harder it was to lift out of the suction effect of the river bed. Speed was required, because the more the mud settled around the pole, the more difficult, if not to say impossible, it would be to rise. Having driven the pole a second time, and perhaps in total twelve feet into the river bed, you would be forgiven for thinking that you had gone far enough. But the operation would continue for as long as the riverbed gave way. Not until the pole was refusing to budge another inch would John be satisfied. As we got towards the end, I was ordered up the pole to give extra weight on the drive. As the men lifted, I would transfer my weight onto previously driven poles, and then as it was dropped I would jump with all my force onto the descending mare, careful to avoid hands and fingers.
As the day wore on and more and more poles were offered up and manoeuvred into position I began to realise that this was close to being a ritual. Any deviation was considered unacceptable and you could be forgiven for thinking sometimes that it was all a bit of a show. It was anything but. A practiced hand could tell a lot from just holding the pole, and as they manoeuvred it into position, whether the end was touching off previous weir pole butts or other fouls. The intention of getting the pole into the right position would sometimes lead to discussions, history lessons, or arguments. The sole concern was to get it right. I noticed that Matt and John had a lot of old knowledge, but the other men weren’t shy to express opinions. Where no agreement could be found, it tended to revert to Paddy, because as the oldest, and with a lifetime of fishing behind him, his word carried weight.
After seven or eight hours, we might have the same number of poles driven, or if lucky, double that. And not a part of your body would be free from pain. As we worked the vertically driven poles needed to be strengthened with horizontal poles which we called ‘Rubberies’. Again, no one knew the origins of the name but these were always very long, but not as thick as the uprights. It was rarely possible to get a pole that long so the poles were joined, and fixed in place with the previously mentioned metal pins. The rubberies were positioned every few feet, and made like a ladder, albeit a very slippery, treacherous ladder, up the weir wings.
I went on more weir-building trips after that. There was always something new to learn. Some were easy jobs, some comedic, while others were pure grief. I recall one event when the entire wing of a newly driven weir popped up and floated away on an incoming tide. Or another, when a chap helping out but with no experience left his leg in a spot where the entire weight of a descending Mare struck. The team that John Heffernan put together that first trip was hard to beat. It had strength, energy, experience, and a bit of light relief, essential ingredients for such a task.
There is a yarn I was told years ago about a quiet, unassuming man named Christy Doherty (RIP) that speaks to me of the fishermen of Cheekpoint. It concerned an incident at a fishing weir located just below the village close to the Mount Quay and Sheag Rock. The story went that Christy rowed down to the Sheag Weir one winter’s morning to haul the net on the low water. It was “black dark” as they say and as Christy hauled down the “gob rope” to the cod end a squall came on, blowing hard from the North West, by far the worst wind you could get at that particular weir. In the space of a minute the squall rose to a hurricane and the punt sank beneath him. All Christy could do was jump onto the top of the net and claw his way, hand over hand towards the weir. On getting to the mouth of the net, he managed to scale the poles and finally reaching the head (or top) of the weir, he collapsed in exhaustion.
The wind had died away, just as quickly as it arose leaving it a cold dark morning. The tide was turning flood, the punt was gone, and Christy would have to await a passing punt or to hail someone on the shore. He found his cigarettes and matches, which had somehow managed to stay dry and curling himself up to cold, he lit one and settled down to await a rescue.
The Sheag Weir, 1960’s I’d imagine.
Photo courtesy of Sean Doherty
Around dawn, the village started to come alive and it was realised that Christy was missing. A punt set off immediately and coming on the Sheag Weir they hailed Christy and asked was he ok. “Just in time lads” was his reply. Fearing the worst, they asked was he hurt. “No” came the reply, “but I’m on me last cigarette”
The story epitomises the men of the village of Cheekpoint in the past. No nonsense, hard working, resilient and very accepting. Christy could have died that morning for nothing more than a few flats, herring or a cod or two. But it would have made a meal that day or bought/bartered milk or butter. I was warned not to repeat it, probably because such stories would embarrass the man. And despite the fact that as an adult Christy would fill with me stories of paddle steamers, herring fishing, and regattas, I bit my tongue and respected his privacy.
The oldest image I know of a Head Weir. Duncannon circa 1685 from a sketch by Thomas Philips With thanks to J Murphy. (original held by NLI)
This year for Heritage week I’m doing a presentation and workshop on the weirs of the harbour. The event is held in Ormond Castle at the invitation of the Office of Public Works. The plan is to provide an overview of the weir history, the technique, their uses with a specific mention about the old eel traps made by the Shanahans of Carrick (including a replica of the trap). I will then look at the introduction of the Salmon weirs, or Scotch Weirs and the social unrest they caused which has been referred to in recent years as the Weir Wars between the fishing families on the Suir and Barrow extending as far as Carrick and New Ross. Finally I will do a re-enactment of the build technique of the weir, and specifically how the upright poles were driven. You can book a free place here.
I realise fishing isn’t everyone’s interest, but there are literally hundreds of events on over the course of heritage week. Here’s a link to all things maritime.
Only a selection of Whats on in Waterford via Tracey McEnaney
Other local events include our resident local Geologist Bill Sheppard. His walks are called a
GEOLOGIST’S EYE VIEW OF SOUTHEAST IRELAND
18 August, 3pm – 5pm
23 August, 6:30pm – 8:30pm
Meet at Faithlegg School, near Cheekpoint, Northeast Waterford
The event will be a walk to overview the landscape and examine some outcropping rocks. A selection of insights into the history of our every-changing earth will be revealed. Expect a surprise or two from this geologist’s eye view. Good footwear recommended. The paths and coastal walks have reasonable surfaces and gradients. They cover an elevation range of 150m. Confirm your place on email@example.com or by texting 0872126677. Limited to about 20 persons. Donations will be appreciated.
And my colleagues in the Barony of Gaultier Historical Society will host a
Public Conversation on Local History
The Barony of Gaultier Historical Society will hold a Public Conversation on Local History in the Dunmore East Library at The Fisherman’s Hall on Thursday, 23rd August. This event which will take place at 10.30 am will involve BGHS committee members talking over a cup of coffee on various aspects of local history from all parts of the Barony of Gaultier. Anyone that has an interest in the local history of Dunmore East and other areas within the Barony of Gaultier is invited to attend this event. Admission is free and all are welcome.
While a popular guest blogger on my site, Joe Falvey is
Talking the Walk,History and Stories of the Dunmore Road
Join Joe for a Walk and a Talk on the Dunmore Road, commencing at Ardkeen Library on Tuesday 21st August at 6.30pm. Admission is free and all are welcome.
This will be my last blog for a few weeks as we are Canada bound for a family wedding. See you Friday 15th September for a look back at the visit of King Edward VII, naturally from a maritime perspective.
I publish a blog about Waterford Harbours maritime heritage each Friday.
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